Fleur de Lis Jacket
Tricot / Knitting

Increasing and decreasing in a steeked garment

Knitted using the traditional stranded technique with steeks, this little jacket is anything but old-fashioned.

A slightly shaped silhouette and open front make it up-to-date and particularly figure flattering.

NOTES

• This sweater is worked entirely in the round from the bottom up, using steeks for the front opening and the armhole and neck shaping's, the Sleeves are worked in the round separately from the Body, using a steek to shape the sleeve cap.

• The background color is A throughout.

• The 9-stitch steeks are worked in a vertical stripe pattern as follows: *k1 with A, k1 with the pattern color, repeat from * 3 times more, k1 with A. The steek stitches are not included in the stitch counts, the number of steek stitches used is knitter’s choice.

• When casting on for the steeks, use the e-wrap cast-on, alternating colors to match the steek stripe pattern.

• To increase within the pattern, use the M1-L technique in the color needed to maintain the pattern.

To Make One slanting to the left (M1-L), use the left-hand needle to scoop up the horizontal strand between the needles from front to back and knit the strand through its back loop, twisting it to prevent a hole in your fabric.

• The sweater is designed so that the patterns on the Body and Sleeves will line up at the armhole.

• For sweater assembly, refer to the illustration for set-in construction.

SIZES

XS (S, M, L, 1X).

Instructions are for the smallest size, with changes for the other sizes noted in parentheses as necessary.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

Bust: 32¼ (35½, 39, 41½, 44¼)"/ [82 (90, 99, 105.5, 112.5)cm]

Hip: 34½ (36¾, 38½, 41¾, 44¾)"/ [87.5 (93, 98, 106, 113.5)cm]

Length: 20½ (21¼, 22, 23, 24)"/ [52 (54, 56, 58.5, 60)cm]

   

NOTE: Measurements in schematic illustrations are finished measurements and do not include steek stitches or front borders.

MATERIALS

Simply Shetland/Jamieson’s Spindrift: 1-super fine weight, 100% wool, each approximately 1 oz/[28g] and 115 yds/[105m].

7 (8, 9, 10, 11) balls of Sunrise #187 (A),

2 each of Yellow Ochre #230 (B), Scotch Broom #1160 (C), Daffodil #390 (D), and Lemon #350 (E)

Size 2 (2.75mm) 29"/[74cm] circular needle

Size 2 (2.75mm) 24"/[60cm] circular needle

Size 2 (2.75mm) double-pointed needles (set of 4)

Size 3 (3.25mm) 29"/[74cm] circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge

Size 3 (3.25mm) 24"/[60cm] circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge

Size 3 (3.25mm) 16"/[40.5cm] circular needle, or size needed to obtain gauge

Size 3 (3.25mm) double-pointed needles (set of 4)

Eight stitch markers (1 in a contrasting color to mark the beginning of the rounds)

Blunt-end yarn needle

Size B/1 (2.25mm) crochet hook for crocheted steek (optional)

GAUGE

28 stitches and 32 rounds = 4"/[10cm] in Fleur de Lis Pattern with the larger needle.

To save time, take time to check gauge.

STITCH PATTERNS

Border Pattern Knitted in the Round (multiple of 4 stitches) See the chart.


NOTE: On Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 only: Purl sts worked in colors B, C, and D, knit sts worked in color A.

Border Pattern Knitted Flat (multiple of 4 stitches) See the chart (opposite).


NOTE: On Rnds 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10 only: Purl sts worked in colors B, C, and D, knit sts worked in color A.

Side Panel Pattern See the chart (opposite).

Fleur de Lis Pattern See the chart.

Body

With the smaller circular needle and A, cast on 217 (233, 241, 261, 281) stitches.

 

BORDER

Work 9 stitches for the steek (Notes), place a marker for the beginning of the round,

work Round 1 of the Border Pattern across the next 208 (224, 232, 252, 272) stitches,

place a marker for the end of the round.

Maintain the steek stitches in the steek pattern throughout.

Work even until Round 10 of the Border Pattern is completed.

Next Round:

Work Round 11 of the Border Pattern and increase 23 (25, 27, 29, 31) stitches evenly between the 2 markers—231 (249, 259, 281, 303) Body stitches.

Change to the larger circular needle.

Pattern Set-Up Round 1:

With A, work the 9-stitch steek,

slip the marker,

k51 (56, 58, 63, 69) right front stitches,

place a marker for the side,

k8,

place a marker for the side,

k113 (121, 127, 139, 149) back stitches,

place a marker for the side,

k8,

place a marker for the side,

k51 (56, 58, 63, 69) left front stitches.

Pattern Set-Up Round 2:

Slipping the markers as you come to them, work the 9-stitch steek,

begin where indicated for the right front for your size and work Round 1 of the Fleur de Lis Pattern over the next 51 (56, 58, 63, 69) stitches,

work Round 1 of the Side Panel Pattern over the next 8 stitches,

begin where indicated for the back for your size and work Round 1 of the Fleur de Lis Pattern over the next 113 (121, 127, 139, 149) stitches,

work Round 1 of the Side Panel Pattern over the next 8 stitches, begin where indicated for the left front for your size and

work Round 1 of the Fleur de Lis Pattern over the last 51 (56, 58, 63, 69) stitches.

 

SHAPE WAIST

Next (Decrease) Round:

*Work to 2 stitches before the 1st side marker,

ssk,

slip the marker,

work the Side Panel Pattern,

slip the marker,

k2tog,

repeat from * once more,

then work to the end of the round—50 (55, 57, 62, 68) stitches remain for each front, 111 (119, 125, 137, 147) stitches remain for the back.

Repeat the Decrease Round every 8 rounds 4 (0, 0, 0, 0) more times,

every 10 rounds 0 (3, 3, 1, 1) more time(s),

then every 12 rounds 0 (0, 0, 2, 2) times—46 (52, 54, 59, 65) stitches remain for each front, 103 (113, 119, 131, 141) stitches remain for the back.

Work even until the piece measures approximately 6½ (6¾, 7, 7¼, 7¾)"/[16.5 (17, 18, 18.5, 19.5)cm].

Next (Increase) Round:

*Work to the 1st side marker,

M1-L,

slip the marker,

work the Side Panel Pattern,

slip the marker,

M1-L,

repeat from * once more,

then work to the end of the round—47 (53, 55, 60, 66) stitches for each front, 105 (115, 121, 133, 143) back stitches.

Repeat the Increase Round every 12 rounds 0 (0, 3, 2, 0) times,

every 14 rounds 0 (0, 1, 1, 0) time(s),

every 16 rounds 0 (0, 0, 0, 1) time(s),

then every 18 rounds 0 (0, 0, 0, 1) time(s)—47 (53, 59, 63, 68) stitches for each front, 105 (115, 129, 139, 147) back stitches.

Work even until the piece measures approximately 13 (13½, 14, 14½, 15)"/[33 (34.5, 35.5, 37, 38)cm],

ending after Round 24 (4, 8, 12, 16) of the Body pattern.

 

ESTABLISH ARMHOLE STEEKS AND SHAPE ARMHOLES

Next Round:

Removing the side markers as you come to them,

work to 2 (4, 5, 6, 7) stitches before the 1st side marker,

break the pattern color.

Bind off the next 12 (16, 18, 20, 22) stitches with A,

then rejoin the pattern color and work to 2 (4, 5, 6, 7) stitches before the next side marker.

Break the pattern color,

bind off the next 12 (16, 18, 20, 22) stitches with A,

rejoin the pattern color,

and work to the end of the round—45 (49, 54, 57, 61) stitches remain for each front, 101 (107, 119, 127, 133) stitches remain for the back.

Next Round:

Work to the 1st set of bound-off stitches,

place a marker,

cast on 9 stitches for the armhole steek,

place a marker,

work to the 2nd set of bound-off stitches,

place a marker,

cast on 9 stitches for the armhole steek,

place a marker,

work to the end of the round.

Next (Decrease) Round:

Slipping the markers as you come to them,

*work to 2 stitches before the armhole steek,

ssk,

work 9 stitches for the steek,

k2tog,

repeat from * once more,

then work to the end of the round—44 (48, 53, 56, 60) stitches remain for each front, 99 (105, 117, 125, 131) stitches remain for the back.

Repeat the Decrease Round every other round 0 (2, 11, 10, 16) times,

then every 4 rounds 6 (6, 2, 3, 0) times—38 (40, 40, 43, 44) stitches remain for each front, 87 (89, 91, 99, 99) stitches remain for the back.

Work even until the armholes measure 4½ (4¾, 5, 5½, 6)"/[11.5 (12, 12.5, 14, 15)cm],

ending 9 (10, 10, 10, 10) stitches before the end of the round marker.

 

ESTABLISH FRONT NECK STEEKS AND SHAPE FRONT NECK

Next Round:

Break the pattern color,

removing the front steek markers as you come to them,

bind off 23 (25, 25, 25, 25) front neck stitches with A,

rejoin the pattern color,

work to the end of the round—29 (30, 30, 33, 34) stitches remain for each front.

Next Round:

Place a marker,

cast on 9 stitches for the front neck steek,

place a marker,

work to the end of the round.

Next (Decrease) Round:

Slipping the markers as you come to them,

work 9 stitches for the steek,

k2tog,

work around to 2 stitches before the front neck steek, ssk—28 (29, 29, 32, 33) stitches remain for each front.

Repeat the Decrease Round every round twice,

every other round twice,

then every 4 rounds twice—22 (23, 23, 26, 27) stitches remain for each front.

Work even until the armholes measure approximately 7 (7¼, 7½, 8, 8½)"/[18 (18.5, 19, 20.5, 21.5)cm].

 

ESTABLISH BACK NECK STEEKS AND SHAPE BACK NECK

Next Round:

Slipping the markers as you come to them,

work to 24 (25, 25, 28, 29) stitches past the armhole steek,

break the pattern color,

bind off the next 39 (39, 41, 43, 41) back neck stitches with A,

rejoin the pattern color,

and work to the end of the round —24 (25, 25, 28, 29) stitches remain for each back shoulder.

Next Round:

Work to the bound-off stitches,

place a marker,

cast on 9 stitches for the back neck steek,

place a marker,

work to the end of the round.

Next (Decrease) Round:

Slipping the markers as you come to them,

work to 2 stitches before the 1st back neck steek marker,

ssk,

work 9 stitches for the back neck steek,

k2tog,

work to the end of the round—23 (24, 24, 27, 28) stitches remain for each back shoulder.

Repeat the Decrease Round once more—22 (23, 23, 26, 27) stitches remain for each back shoulder.

Work even until the armholes measure approximately 7½ (7¾, 8, 8½, 9)"/[19 (19.5, 20.5, 21.5, 23)cm].

With A, bind off all stitches.

 

Sleeves (Make 2)

With the smaller double-pointed needles and A, cast on 64 (68, 72, 72, 76) stitches,

place a marker for the beginning of the round and join,

being careful not to twist the stitches.

Work Rounds 1–11 of the Border Pattern,

and on the last round, increase 5 (5, 5, 9, 9) stitches evenly around—69 (73, 77, 81, 85) stitches.

Pattern Set-Up Round:

Change to the larger double-pointed needles,

work Round 1 of the Side Panel Pattern over the first 8 stitches,

place a marker,

beginning where indicated for Sleeves for your size,

work Round 17 of the Fleur de Lis Pattern to the end of the round.

Next (Increase) Round:

Work the Side Panel Pattern,

slip the marker,

M1 in pattern,

continue the Fleur de Lis Pattern to the next marker,

M1 in pattern—71 (75, 79, 83, 87) stitches.

Repeat the Increase Round every 8 rounds 0 (0, 0, 0, 2) times,

every 9 rounds 0 (0, 0, 0, 8) times,

every 10 rounds 7 (5, 3, 7, 0) times,

then every 12 rounds 0 (2, 4, 1, 0) times,

changing to a circular needle as the stitches accumulate—85 (89, 93, 99, 107) stitches.

Work even until the piece measures approximately 11 (11½, 12, 12½, 13)"/[28 (29, 30.5, 32, 33)cm],

ending after Round 24 (4, 8, 12, 16) of the Fleur de Lis Pattern, 6 (8, 9, 10, 11) stitches before the end of the round.

 

ESTABLISH SLEEVE CAP STEEKS AND SHAPE CAP

Next Round:

Cut the pattern color;

with A, bind off 12 (16, 18, 20, 22) stitches;

rejoin the pattern color,

and work to the end of the round—73 (73, 75, 79, 85) stitches remain.

Next Round:

Cast on 9 stitches for the sleeve cap steek,

place a marker,

work to the end of the round.

Next (Decrease) Round:

Slipping the markers as you come to them, work 9 stitches for the steek,

k2tog,

work to the last 2 stitches of the round,

ssk—71 (71, 73, 77, 83)

Sleeve stitches remain.

Repeat the Decease Round every 4 rounds 0 (0, 0, 2, 0) times,

every other round 22 (21, 17, 20, 25) times,

then every round 0 (0, 4, 0, 0) times,

changing to double-pointed needles as necessary—27 (29, 31, 33, 33)

Sleeve stitches remain.

With A, bind off.

 

Finishing

Secure the front, back neck, front neck, and armhole steeks.

Block the pieces to the finished measurements.

Cut the steeks.

Trim the steeks as necessary, fold back and tack to the wrong side.

Use mattress stitch to sew the shoulder seams.

NECKBAND

With the right side facing, using the smaller circular needle and A, pick up and knit 104 stitches along the neckline.

Next Row (WS):

With A, purl across.

Work Rows 1–11 of the Border Pattern.

With A, bind off all stitches.

FRONT BANDS

With the right side facing, using the smaller circular needle and A, pick up and knit 148 (156, 164, 176, 188) stitches along the left front edge, including the side of the neckband.

Work Rows 1–11 of the Border Pattern.

With A, bind off all stitches.

Repeat along the right front edge, including the side of the neckband.

EDGING FOR FRONT BANDS

With the right side facing, using a smaller double-pointed needle and A, pick up and knit 8 stitches along the top of the right front band.

Next Row (WS):

Bind off knitwise.

Repeat along the top edge of the left front band.

Repeat along the bottom edge of both the right and left front bands.

Set in the Sleeves.

 

SUGGESTED ALTERNATE COLOR WAYS

Alternate Color way 1, left:

Simply Shetland/Jamieson’s Spindrift in Gentian #710 (A), Maroon #595 (B), Rouge #563 (C), Sorbet #570 (D), and Rose #550 (E)

Alternate Color way 2, right:

Mulberry #598 (A), Peacock #258 (B), Seabright #1010 (C), Surf #135 (D), and Cloud #764 (E)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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